Great Divide

Women’s Fashion

By Sandra Ballentine October 17, 2012

The center parts on fall runways were more rock ’n’ roll than retro (except at Miu Miu, where Guido Palau played up the collection’s 1970s vibe by adding sideburn-like loops of hair to the look). Sexy and tousled — see the bed-head version in the first slide — or structured and severe, like the precision parts Luigi Murenu did for Givenchy (slide 3), this is hair you can actually wear. Palau, who went with center parts at Alexander Wang, Akris and Jean Paul Gaultier, says, “It’s straightforward, effortless and chic.” Effortless, maybe, but it helps if you start with the right cut. “The look works best on medium-length hair, when the ends just hit the collarbone,” says Palau, who is Redken’s creative consultant. It could be worth the price of a trim, because, according to Neil Moodie, the Bumble and Bumble stylist who created a slept-in-looking variation at Burberry Prorsum, a middle part can make you look years younger than a side part or fussy up-do. “It feels innocent, bordering on teenage,” he says. An exposed ear, or even two, adds the right cool-girl touch. (It’s a trend that will continue: tresses were tucked behind ears on many a spring 2013 runway.) Done correctly, down the center should never look middle of the road.

Greg KesslerOdile Gilbert’s center part at Theyskens’ Theory.

CENTER PART

From Marc Jacobs’s precise up-do to the slept-in styles showcased at Isabel Marant and Rag & Bone, the center part took many forms this fall. Here, the hairstylist Odile Gilbert gives us four ways to wear the trend.

Dual Texture
To best translate this style from the runway to real life, Gilbert recommends using a protective leave-in conditioner (such as Kérastase Nectar Thermique) at the roots in place of gel. Brush-out the lower section of the hair to achieve subtle contrast.

The Embellished Up-do
Texture is key when using ornaments in the hair. “The accessories should almost become part of the hair,” says Gilbert. To keep the overall effect slightly unkempt, experiment with an imperfect part (à la Proenza Schouler) and use styling products with a matte finish, like Redken Powder Grip 03.

The School Girl
Whether you opt for the Leia-like buns showcased at Marc Jacobs or the softer, twisted half up-do seen at Gucci, keep product minimal to avoid a theatrical finish. A mist of hairspray is all you need, says Gilbert. Her go-to: Kérastase Double Force.

Spring Forward
The center part remains a central focus for spring 2013. For the recent Theyskens’ Theory presentation, Gilbert used wigs resembling the cut of the designer, in unusual colors inspired by his collection. At home, Gilbert recommends using mousse (we like Sachajuan’s signature formula) — from root-to-tip — then allowing hair to air dry, so it appears slightly wet. LILY NIMA